Brothers Trucks 1960-1966 Premium Power Brake Installation

03/01/2016

Brothers Trucks 1960-1966 Premium Power Brake Installation

03/01/2016

Add some shine and function to your truck. Brothers premium power brake conversion comes with a pre-assembled polished stainless 8-inch dual booster, chromed Corvette-style master cylinder and chrome or polished hardware.

The proportioning valve has a pressure differential switch incorporated into it. When hooked up, it will trigger a warning light if it senses any imbalance (like a leaky hose or low fluid) in the system, which is handy if your master is under the floor.

Adapting your brake lines to your system to the new two-circuit master cylinder is necessary.

We soaked most of the brake fluid out of the reservoir with rag, and then detached the old brake line with a line wrench.

The line was pulled out of the “T” down on the frame, too.

Remove the stock master from the firewall by pulling the two bolts.

The pushrod was then unbolted from the pedal arm.

Now the stock master can be removed and trashed.

Using the mounting brackets as templates, the two extra holes used to mount the booster were drilled out. Be careful to check for wiring harnesses and such beforehand.

These mounting brackets tilt the booster slightly, which changes the pedal ratio in order to get a full stroke out of the master cylinder

The booster/master assembly was set onto the mounting brackets.

And mounted up solid using stainless fasteners.

Looking good! Now it’s time to do all the connecting so it works.

As per the directions, drilled a new hole in the pedal arm 1 inch lower than the original. The reason for this is that it makes the pedal-less “touchy!”

The pushrod was then bolted up through the new hole.

Before running the new lines, clean up the old line and surrounding area and we repainted the crossmember.

These are the passenger side lines after separating the front and rear circuits.

Drilled and tapped for a couple of Kugel clamps (www.kugelkomponents.com) to secure the two lines as they run along the crossmember.

Not bad, eh?

Remove the previously plugged 1/8-inch vacuum filling from the intake manifold and replaced it with the new 3/8-inch unit.

Then run the vacuum line over to the fitting on the booster.

Connected the line at the prop valve and make a few more minor bends.

Here’s a cool trick. Smash one Kugel clamp and used it against a standard clamp, making for a cool little separator for the two brake lines.

Fill the master cylinder reservoir.

We broke the cardinal rule and installed the master cylinder without bench-bleeding it first. We leveled it out using the airbags on the truck, removed the lines and pumped out any air bubbles that were in the system.

We then proceeded to bleed the brakes, starting at the right rear corner and working to the front left.

Now we fired up the truck and checked for any leaks before heading out for a few brake checks.

This photo is kind of unremarkable, but that’s because when we hit the brakes, the truck stopped straight, smoothly, and steadily. And the pedal pressure needed to apply the brakes is now a fraction of what it once was.

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