Brothers Trucks 1967-1972 Suburban Seat Cover and Seat Belt Installation

03/01/2016

Brothers Trucks 1967-1972 Suburban Seat Cover and Seat Belt Installation

03/01/2016

The first step is to strip the old covers.

The seat frames were in good condition but the pivot arms on the front bench needed some sanding to remove surface rust.

We used a rust inhibitor paint found at the local auto parts store in an easy-to-use rattle can.

The original seat foam for the two rear bench seats showed some age but was in remarkably good condition–so, we used them.

The OEM anchor wire had rusted over the years and this, in turn, caused the original seat vinyl to begin to deteriorate. It was time to make new wires.

There are a number of threaded holes on the various seat frames. They are primarily for the seat legs but some are for seat pivot arms and belts. Make sure to use a thread chaser to clean the threads. You will be thankful.

The Brothers front foam seat base (upside down) is notched on the ends. This area requires a more dense foam insert as it receives the bulk of the extra load from passengers getting in and out of the truck.

Here is the end piece that fits into the notch on the foam seat base. It is critical, so don’t forget to use it.

Foam for the seat base and high-density notches are positioned together before the seat cover is installed.

A thin cheesecloth material is used on the leading edge of the rear bench foam to protect both the seat foam and the vinyl cover at this edge.

A piece of high-density foam is placed on the edge to give the required shape. It’s trimmed to shape with a special saw for cutting seat foam. It’s held in place with heavy-duty contact cement.

The same foam is also used across the leading edge to, again, help with the shape.

To give added support to the original seat foam and to help in shaping the seat before the cover is added, a 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick piece of foam is laid out the entire width and length of the seat.

Note where the houndstooth inserts are and mark this on the seat foam. Then cut reliefs into the foam. This allows the inserts to fit within the foam. Once the seat is covered you will have a “level” seat.

Note the seat foam has the secondary foam in position and the reliefs are cut into place. Next, fit the cover for the final time.

Spray a contact cement on the bottom of the seat base foam.

Next up is the cheesecloth that is cut to fit and it too receives a dose of contact cement. Remember, this material protects the foam from the seat spring.

Stretch the seat cover over the base. A good idea is to leave the seat cover in the sun for a few hours, the warmth will make the cover much more pliable and easier to stretch over the foam.

Here’s one reason why additional foam is used–it will fill the gap and make the seat cover fit snug and neat.

See that little clip? It is a factory clip that holds the factory cardboard seat back into place. If yours are missing and you can’t find a suitable replacement, try wire ties. We did and they worked great.

The new anchor wire slides through a tunnel in the vinyl and works its way around the entire cover.

There are hog ring pliers that bend the ring around the anchor wire holding the seat cover in place.

Note the male end of the seat belt is bolted to the seat frame but underneath the seat cover. You will have to do this before finishing the seat back cover.

See, we weren’t kidding. The upright seat back portion of the seat cover is positioned over the seat belt mounting point and must be installed first.

The front seat tracks were in a state of disrepair, so off to DES Systems for powder coating in black.

Yep, you will have to punch holes in your brand new seat covers, but do it carefully! The threaded nuts on the backside of the frame will hold the armrest irons in this case.

This is a typical rear seat leg and, it too is held in position by cap screws that pass through the seat cover material and into the captured nuts.

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