With the engine and transmission in place, Eric turned to the fuel delivery system. It’s worth noting that the best way to ensure a smooth running EFI engine is to start with a well designed fuel delivery system. Sniper offers a retro-fit in-tank fuel pump module, should you intend to retain your stock tank. Eric decided to replace the original tank in favor of a new Sniper assembly. This powder-coated tank came complete with a 400 liter-per-hour (LPH) in-tank pump and mount, as well as a fuel level sender. This required some minor assembly which Eric completed in short order. He decided on a GM Corvette style filter regulator mounted up near the front of the chassis, using the Chevelle’s original 3/8-inch fuel line as the return. Another option would have been to use a Holley filter regulator mounted near the fuel line with a large capacity filter. Holley also offers a combination filter-regulator that has become quite popular.
The engine came with a composite intake manifold without a fuel rail and a set of unknown injectors. When we attempted to start the engine, it would not fire. After hours of diagnostics, we discovered a set of fully plugged injectors. We could have had them cleaned and flow tested but that would have set us back over two weeks, providing a minor savings over a brand new set of injectors. For this engine, we chose to use a set of new Holley 42 lb-hr injectors that allows Eric to step up the power at some point in the future. We also included a Holley Sniper fuel rail kit to complete the fuel delivery portion.
With the engine in place and properly wired, it refused to fire. We discovered our take-out injectors were all plugged up. So we ordered a set of Holley 42 lb-hr injectors to replace the factory Flex-Fuel injectors that were slightly smaller. The engine then fired immediately.
Because Eric was looking for ultimate reliability with this conversion, he elected to use Earl’s Ultra-Pro PTFE fuel hose and fittings. The Ultra-Pro hose uses a high quality, non-conductive polytetrafluoroethylene liner. This material is non-reactive, which makes it ideal for long-term use with gasoline, ethanol, methanol, and even nitromethane! However, the hose does require its own specific Ultra-Pro fittings, which are more expensive than standard AN fittings and hose. The projected lifespan of this hose makes it a wise choice.
In this install, Eric chose to use a 4L60E automatic, but we thought we’d offer suggestions for a manual transmission conversion. The most common selections will either be a four-speed like a Muncie or Super T-10 or, more likely, either a Tremec TKO /TKX five-speed or perhaps one of the T-56 six-speed variants. Regardless, you’ll need a bellhousing. Our experience with OE bellhousings is that after years of heat cycling, they are often off-center when checked for concentricity.
One of the small things that can screw up your LS swap is to make sure the alternator is wired properly. Holley offers a plug terminal with a wire connecting the “L” terminal on the alternator to the charge indicator light in the dash. If a charge light is not used, you must a small, 50-watt resistor in line to prevent alternator damage.
We wrote an accompanying story (which you can read by clicking here) on the Lakewood aluminum bellhousing and found this part is very close to perfect right out of the box. It’s still advisable to check concentricity, especially if using a Tremec TKO/TKX transmission as these gearboxes demand proper alignment. If you’re going for a T-56 style six speed, Quick Time offers a steel scattershield that will mate to the six-speed’s unique bellhousing arrangement. You might also investigate a Hays LS style flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate assembly. Another option is making the leap to a hydraulic clutch release system. Holley offers a couple of options aimed at use with the T-56 six speeds as well as the Tremec TKO/TKX and older four-speeds.
After replacing the plugged injectors, the engine came to life, but after 10 minutes of run time it still felt soft and clearly needed tuning. Because this is an OE computer, it will require custom tuning that generally costs between $500 and $1,000. This is on top of the cost of the original ECU from an outside source as well as the new harness. Added all up, this would exceed the cost of a Holley Terminator-X unit and nearly equal the cost of a 24x Holley HP ECU and harness kit. Plus, this does not address the additional time spent taking the car to the tuner, perhaps more than once. We bring this up not to necessarily condemn the factory ECU choice, but rather to offer additional options.
This overview of options for an LS swap is aimed at helping you make informed decisions on major equipment components that will be necessary to complete the swap. There are a ton of little details like switched 12-volt availability, the need for multiple good grounds for the electronics, and a dozen other pieces to the puzzle like driveline alignment that you will still have to face. But with a solid plan and good execution, an LS swap can deliver 21st Century power and convenience to your classic street machine.